Tag archives for arch

I mentioned in earlier updates that I would be using templates for the arching. Mr. Vartanian has always used his eyes and he has started showing me angles and ways to look at the arch to make it even and smooth. He also let me borrow a violin he was working on to base my arching.

Arching the Back

Arching the Back

I had to pay special attention to the corners to make sure they are smooth and after checking with him one morning he said I was at a good stopping point and I could move on to the top. You can see in the bottom left of the second picture here one of the spots that is going to be thin from the drill press I used flattening the edge.

No Arching Line on the Corner

Leaving the Back

Moving onto the top, Mr. Vartanian cut out my pattern since I’m personally a little nervous about doing something like this on the bandsaw. He is very efficient and cut right up to the line of the pattern. He also said half jokingly half seriously I should keep the extra wood incase I mess up. I put it aside just in case.

Cutting Out the Top

Backup Wood

The Top

Tracing of the Top

I started to compare the thickness of the back to the top just to see how much wood I’m actually going to have to take off. It’s pretty amazing how much extra is needed to create something so thin. I started to use Mr. Belote’s violin cradle to rough the arching of the top and Mr. Vartanian gave me another option for work space similar to his table I used for the back. We nailed two pieces of leather into a bench to brace the plate up against. It was very easy to work with and adjust angles without having the plate clamped down.

Comparing the Thickness

Arching the Top

Leather to Brace the Plate

Leather Nailed Down

Working with spruce is very different from maple. The grain of spruce runs vertically so it has a tendency to split. This is most difficult in the C-bout area. To counter the splitting there, Mr. Vartanian told me to come at the splitting wood from two directions. It is also much easier to cut spruce than maple so I’m finding that I can brace the plate with my hand and work with it against the leather. With a rough 5mm line I started gouging out a rough arch.

Rough Line for Thickness

Wood Splitting

Gouging the C Bout

Rough Arch All Around

Closeup of Rough Gouging

Sometimes wood will have little impurities in it that can’t be seen till it’s cut into. This is common to see in the process of making and sometimes in the final product if it doesn’t get cut away. I found a little one in my top that started to disappear after I cut away more wood.

Impurity in the Top

Since I left the top a little thick when it was being glued together we took it down flat again with a plane taking off about another millimeter. I then went to rough the arching more now using finger planes instead of the gouge to smooth things out.

Flattening the Top

Rough Arch with Finger Planes

Before taking the plate to the drill press, Mr. Vartanian wanted me to take the edge down to 5mm more exactly to help counter messing up and getting too thin an edge at any spots. This I did with a plane as well. Here’s how the thickness is comparing after the edge work.

Thomas Planing the Edge

Roughing the Edge of the Top

Comparing Thickness Front and Back

Before taking the top to the drill press Mr. Vartanian noticed I’ve been working rather slowly and he showed me some ways to more efficiently take wood off. He said it usually takes him about a day to get a nice rough arch for the top. We set up the drill press and I focused more on keeping a constant pressure on the top. I was successful in cutting an even edge this time!

Edge Taken Down with Drillpress

Rough Corner Close Up

Rough Edge

Going back with small planes I took the edge down smooth and left it for the holiday!

Smoother Arching by Mr. Vartanian

Smooth Corner Closeup

Smooth Edge

Read more about Arching the Top »

Due to a family emergency this past week, most of my time was spent away from the work bench. The time I did spend, I was able to continue the arching of the back and started bringing down the edge of the arching to the 4.5mm the drill press was set to. This is most difficult to do in the c-bouts because of angles and the grain of the wood running against the direction of the tool. Mr. Vartanian let me use his work space which has a sturdy table that pulls out and he allowed me to clamp the plate to it to work.

The Table

The Table Out

The Plate Clamped

This made the gauge work much easier and I was able to bring the edge down flush with the flat edge already present. Eventually this will allow me to make a channel for the purfling to be inlaid which I’m looking forward to.

Rough Edge

Smooth Edge

Here’s some short news on the top from last week. After the pin tracing was complete Mr. Vartanian’s trick is to trace that line with a pencil. This will create a ledge of lead that will be very easy to see when cutting out the pattern on the band saw. Once both plates are cut I’ll be gluing them lightly together to adjust and make sure they are identical at every angle.

The Top Plate, Traced

I’m sorry for the short update but I promise much more next week. Till then, please send me your questions and comments. I’m looking for a lot of feedback about this site and will gladly entertain anything related to string instruments. I will be happy to answer your questions privately or publicly through the site. Looking forward to hearing from you!

Read more about Arching the Back »

This has been an eventful week. Due to some things that I should have fixed earlier on, I’ve put myself behind a little and had to change my plans some as well. I continued roughing the arching down and found I was more successful going ahead and using a finger plane than the gouge from the previous week.

Back Plate with Finger Plane

Arching on the Back

Back Plate Arching

Now that my edge was thinner I started taking it down again to the pencil line with files and using my original template as a guide. At one point I was checking a few things with Mr. Belote and he went ahead and took the button down at the top of the plate as well.

Filing Down the Shape

End Button

At this point I decided that there were too many imperfections in my template and I had gone a little too narrow in the C-bout that I could no longer use it on the side I was working. An untraditional move, Mr. Belote helped me make a new template. We used a thick paper instead of the poster board and to save time, Mr. Belote cut out the template for me. When cutting out the pattern, you have to do it in one cut because lifting will cause inconsistencies in the pattern which I didn’t want to deal with again.

Tracing the New Template

Cutting the New Template

Cutting the Template View 2

The New Template

The reason I had to cut a new template was to trace it onto the other side. Since my pattern was based on the template from Henry Strobel’s book, I needed something new to make the side symmetrical. I want to take this time to apologize to Henry Strobel. The information in his book is quite helpful and in the right hands can produce an amazing instrument. A few poor decisions on my part led to what I have now and say nothing to the information he provides in his book.

I clamped and traced the pattern on the other side under supervision and started taking down to the line again. Even when the line is mostly gone that isn’t close enough. A fraction of a millimeter can make the entire side look lopsided. It was imperative I get the side down to just the pencil line.

The Pencil Trace

Pencil Line Left

Once I had the pencil line taken away I brought the plate to Mr. Vartanian for inspection. He was approving to say the least, though he could easily tell I had to cut some corners to get to where I was. He told Mr. Belote to help me take down the edge to four and a half millimeters with the drill press using a special circular saw. Mr. Belote took down the bulk of the edge to 5mm as I observed and took pictures. I then took a pass and took it down the rest of the way.

Drill Press Still

Drill Press Moving

Taking Down the Edge

Taking Down the Edge 2

Edge Taken Down

Closeup C Bout

Closeup Edge

Taking Away the Chips

A key to this quick trick is to keep pressure on the plate so that it doesn’t lift up as you slide it under the press. Twice I let up the pressure and the edge is a little thin in those spots. That’s something I’ll just have to live with at this point.

Now that the edge was flat, it made a lot easier to see and measure angles that Mr. Vartanian wanted to check. Most importantly he wanted to adjust the edge of the corners so they pointed a certain way. I started to file these down and then he showed me to take them down with a knife instead. As I took the second corner down the right angle I slipped and heard a crack. I split the wood!

Split Corner

Glued Corner

So, we glued it. In the end, this edge/crack will be rounded off so it’s nothing to worry about; it could have been a lot worse. It’s nice to see instruments made today that look perfect to the naked eye but they too may have had small mistakes like this happen.

A little more time was spent finalize the shape off the new template and other symmetrical measurements and I had to get the new pattern to the top wood. My corners were a little short compared to the template so another untraditional technique/idea was given to me by Mr. Belote. Usually, the template is used to trace the back and the top. Since both of mine are no longer the same as the end product I just clamped and trace the back directly to the top wood. I used a pin to trace the plate which is a trick used by Mr. Vartanian with his template.

Finished Back Shape

Back on Top Wood

Pin Used to Trace Shape

Back Clamped to the Top to Trace

Once the pin imprint is in the wood it can be traced with a pencil making it much easier to cut out and file down. Hopefully this will save me time and catch me up to getting the arching more complete over the next few weeks.

Read more about The New Template »

Just to recap, the front plates have been glued and the seam looked a lot better than when the back was glued.
After planing the underside flat you almost can’t pick out the seam because the grain of the wood goes in the same direction as the seam itself.

Just to recap, the front plates have been glued and the seam looked a lot better than when the back was glued.
After planing the underside flat you almost can’t pick out the seam because the grain of the wood goes in the same direction as the seam itself.

Front Plate Glued

Top Seam

Top Plates Glued Before Planing

Top Seam Planed

To move on to something more interesting, I cut out my pattern! Now these blocks of wood are going to start looking like a violin. First thing first I had to trace my pattern using my template. (Check out where the template came from on my update from 11-12-07). To make sure the template didn’t move and because it was a little bent, I clamped a piece of wood over it.

Tracing the Pattern on the Back

Half ot the Traced Pattern

I flipped the pattern over and did it again all while “fixing” some mistakes from earlier when the pattern was cut out. You may remember the upper bout corner was a little ungraceful upon review so I gave it a little more shape and curve this time round. I also didn’t like the shape I cut for the button on the back plate so I used a quarter (thank you Mr. Belote) to trace that and take it down as I go. (Sorry if the pencil lines are hard to see!)

The Traced Pattern

The Traced Back Pattern Second View

You may also notice that the pattern isn’t centered on the wood. After talking it over with a few people we decided that there are a few “impurities” if you will in the wood and by shifting it down I was able to avoid them in my pattern.

After a quick trip to the band saw, BAM! A violin looking plate appears.

The Back Cut Out (Top)

The Back From Below

View 2

Of course I still gave myself some room in places like the button and corners but the plate is pretty much cut down to the line. I started to file down the edges since they are rough from the machine and to get a final shape that will hopefully match my original pattern or be a new one based on human error! Here’s a picture of that now more graceful corner as well that I had to fix.

Filing the Edge

Files and the Corner

Files & Corner View 2

After filing for a while I seemed to be hurting the process more that helping it. I wasn’t filing flat on the edge because they were so thick. Millimeters are miles in the violin making world. So to make my life easier I started to rough out the arching with a gouge and take down edge to about five millimeters (where the line is on the pictures). This way when I go back to filing there is less of an area to shift around on and I can carve a shape closer to what I’ll want. To brace the plate I clamped it in a cradle which I borrowed from Mr. Belote and then I went to town taking out a lot of wood.

Back in Cradle

The Gouge

Gouging the Back

Gouging the Back View 2

Rough Arching with the Gouge

Closeup of Gouge Work

I had to use a lot of force to get the wood to cut and I ended up with a few blisters on my hand as well as I start to form calluses from the handle of the gauge. Even though I’m not taking strict measurements there is a lot of wood to take off and I am still periodically checking imaginary lines up to the top of the arch.

Thomas Gouging the Back

I have to be careful not to take corners completely off and eventually I will go back with finger planes and probably some rough templates to precisely shape the arching.

Rough Arching

Even though I totaled a few good hours of wood work just taking away chip after chip I still have a ways to go to rough out the back. I checked in with Mr. Vartanian and Mr. Belote and they placed some pencil lines in places that I can still take down wood. You might be able to see them in this picture.

Places that Still Need Work

Well, back to the bench!

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