Tag archives for pattern

This has been an eventful week. Due to some things that I should have fixed earlier on, I’ve put myself behind a little and had to change my plans some as well. I continued roughing the arching down and found I was more successful going ahead and using a finger plane than the gouge from the previous week.

Back Plate with Finger Plane

Arching on the Back

Back Plate Arching

Now that my edge was thinner I started taking it down again to the pencil line with files and using my original template as a guide. At one point I was checking a few things with Mr. Belote and he went ahead and took the button down at the top of the plate as well.

Filing Down the Shape

End Button

At this point I decided that there were too many imperfections in my template and I had gone a little too narrow in the C-bout that I could no longer use it on the side I was working. An untraditional move, Mr. Belote helped me make a new template. We used a thick paper instead of the poster board and to save time, Mr. Belote cut out the template for me. When cutting out the pattern, you have to do it in one cut because lifting will cause inconsistencies in the pattern which I didn’t want to deal with again.

Tracing the New Template

Cutting the New Template

Cutting the Template View 2

The New Template

The reason I had to cut a new template was to trace it onto the other side. Since my pattern was based on the template from Henry Strobel’s book, I needed something new to make the side symmetrical. I want to take this time to apologize to Henry Strobel. The information in his book is quite helpful and in the right hands can produce an amazing instrument. A few poor decisions on my part led to what I have now and say nothing to the information he provides in his book.

I clamped and traced the pattern on the other side under supervision and started taking down to the line again. Even when the line is mostly gone that isn’t close enough. A fraction of a millimeter can make the entire side look lopsided. It was imperative I get the side down to just the pencil line.

The Pencil Trace

Pencil Line Left

Once I had the pencil line taken away I brought the plate to Mr. Vartanian for inspection. He was approving to say the least, though he could easily tell I had to cut some corners to get to where I was. He told Mr. Belote to help me take down the edge to four and a half millimeters with the drill press using a special circular saw. Mr. Belote took down the bulk of the edge to 5mm as I observed and took pictures. I then took a pass and took it down the rest of the way.

Drill Press Still

Drill Press Moving

Taking Down the Edge

Taking Down the Edge 2

Edge Taken Down

Closeup C Bout

Closeup Edge

Taking Away the Chips

A key to this quick trick is to keep pressure on the plate so that it doesn’t lift up as you slide it under the press. Twice I let up the pressure and the edge is a little thin in those spots. That’s something I’ll just have to live with at this point.

Now that the edge was flat, it made a lot easier to see and measure angles that Mr. Vartanian wanted to check. Most importantly he wanted to adjust the edge of the corners so they pointed a certain way. I started to file these down and then he showed me to take them down with a knife instead. As I took the second corner down the right angle I slipped and heard a crack. I split the wood!

Split Corner

Glued Corner

So, we glued it. In the end, this edge/crack will be rounded off so it’s nothing to worry about; it could have been a lot worse. It’s nice to see instruments made today that look perfect to the naked eye but they too may have had small mistakes like this happen.

A little more time was spent finalize the shape off the new template and other symmetrical measurements and I had to get the new pattern to the top wood. My corners were a little short compared to the template so another untraditional technique/idea was given to me by Mr. Belote. Usually, the template is used to trace the back and the top. Since both of mine are no longer the same as the end product I just clamped and trace the back directly to the top wood. I used a pin to trace the plate which is a trick used by Mr. Vartanian with his template.

Finished Back Shape

Back on Top Wood

Pin Used to Trace Shape

Back Clamped to the Top to Trace

Once the pin imprint is in the wood it can be traced with a pencil making it much easier to cut out and file down. Hopefully this will save me time and catch me up to getting the arching more complete over the next few weeks.

Read more about The New Template »

Just to recap, the front plates have been glued and the seam looked a lot better than when the back was glued.
After planing the underside flat you almost can’t pick out the seam because the grain of the wood goes in the same direction as the seam itself.

Just to recap, the front plates have been glued and the seam looked a lot better than when the back was glued.
After planing the underside flat you almost can’t pick out the seam because the grain of the wood goes in the same direction as the seam itself.

Front Plate Glued

Top Seam

Top Plates Glued Before Planing

Top Seam Planed

To move on to something more interesting, I cut out my pattern! Now these blocks of wood are going to start looking like a violin. First thing first I had to trace my pattern using my template. (Check out where the template came from on my update from 11-12-07). To make sure the template didn’t move and because it was a little bent, I clamped a piece of wood over it.

Tracing the Pattern on the Back

Half ot the Traced Pattern

I flipped the pattern over and did it again all while “fixing” some mistakes from earlier when the pattern was cut out. You may remember the upper bout corner was a little ungraceful upon review so I gave it a little more shape and curve this time round. I also didn’t like the shape I cut for the button on the back plate so I used a quarter (thank you Mr. Belote) to trace that and take it down as I go. (Sorry if the pencil lines are hard to see!)

The Traced Pattern

The Traced Back Pattern Second View

You may also notice that the pattern isn’t centered on the wood. After talking it over with a few people we decided that there are a few “impurities” if you will in the wood and by shifting it down I was able to avoid them in my pattern.

After a quick trip to the band saw, BAM! A violin looking plate appears.

The Back Cut Out (Top)

The Back From Below

View 2

Of course I still gave myself some room in places like the button and corners but the plate is pretty much cut down to the line. I started to file down the edges since they are rough from the machine and to get a final shape that will hopefully match my original pattern or be a new one based on human error! Here’s a picture of that now more graceful corner as well that I had to fix.

Filing the Edge

Files and the Corner

Files & Corner View 2

After filing for a while I seemed to be hurting the process more that helping it. I wasn’t filing flat on the edge because they were so thick. Millimeters are miles in the violin making world. So to make my life easier I started to rough out the arching with a gouge and take down edge to about five millimeters (where the line is on the pictures). This way when I go back to filing there is less of an area to shift around on and I can carve a shape closer to what I’ll want. To brace the plate I clamped it in a cradle which I borrowed from Mr. Belote and then I went to town taking out a lot of wood.

Back in Cradle

The Gouge

Gouging the Back

Gouging the Back View 2

Rough Arching with the Gouge

Closeup of Gouge Work

I had to use a lot of force to get the wood to cut and I ended up with a few blisters on my hand as well as I start to form calluses from the handle of the gauge. Even though I’m not taking strict measurements there is a lot of wood to take off and I am still periodically checking imaginary lines up to the top of the arch.

Thomas Gouging the Back

I have to be careful not to take corners completely off and eventually I will go back with finger planes and probably some rough templates to precisely shape the arching.

Rough Arching

Even though I totaled a few good hours of wood work just taking away chip after chip I still have a ways to go to rough out the back. I checked in with Mr. Vartanian and Mr. Belote and they placed some pencil lines in places that I can still take down wood. You might be able to see them in this picture.

Places that Still Need Work

Well, back to the bench!

Read more about Cutting out the Back Plat... »

As plenty of players already know there are many shapes to the instruments we play. Some violins have smaller upper bouts or may be just a few millimeters longer than another. Other instruments have different slight variances that change the sound and feel of the instrument. While many measurements are essentially standardized the basic mold of the body has to be chosen by a maker based on taste and availability. In my case I decided to use a mold that wasn’t being used at Shar. I now own two books by Henry Strobel, Violin Making: Step by Step and Useful Measurements for Violin Makers. (http://www.henrystrobel.com/) In the first book mentioned, Mr. Strobel gives a lot of great information along with full size drawings for a “basic Strad pattern.”

The Strobel Template

I then had to make my mold. Commonly I’m finding that many makers use a traditional Italian or internal mold. Mr. Strobel also describes his process by using an internal mold but the master maker I’m working under, Ashot Vartanian, is used to using a French or outside mold. Since I’m personally more unfamiliar with (and want to learn about) an outside mold and the persons guiding me are used to that as well, I decided to adapt Mr. Strobel’s pattern into an outside mold. Bill Belote, a repairman and violinmaker at Shar who has also made an instrument under Mr. Vartanian, found me some plywood to make the mold. Mr. Belote will also be guiding me through this process since Mr. Vartanian is busy enough making his own instruments and helping with repairs. After gluing two pieces of plywood together to get something thick enough for the height of the ribs, it was very easy to trace the pattern from the poster material cutout.

Plywood with Clamps

Glued Mold

Glued Mold

Using a set of dividers I traced the patterns again creating the proper distance and shape for the ribs in the C-bout and corner areas especially. On the band saw (see Tools) Mr. Belote helped me cut out the shape and using files and sand paper I smoothed out the surface to create what will make the shape of my violin!

Tracing the Mold

Mold Files & Tools

Read more about Outside Mold »